Hola Followers!
I just recently found out, that my best friend is going to Varadero, Cuba for a week long stay in a fancy, all inclusive resort.
You’re probably all thinking, “So what? Big deal...”, but it is a big deal and I’ll tell you why.
There are two main reasons: 1. I am very close with my best friend, who knows and respects my decision to travel abroad this summer to a third world country, however I feel like situation completely undermines my best friend's ability to understand and take seriously what it is that I stand for being in Beyond Borders and doing this volunteer stint. It stings a little that my best friend (in the whole wide world) is going on a cruise to a third world country without looking at the implications s/he may be causing while there. I know not everyone cares as much as us Beyond Borders students do, but I thought my presence in this program might make people a little more aware of their own actions in the world, but it seems like that is not the case.
2. I am taking an Anthropology of Tourism course currently and it’s probably the most informative course in terms of becoming aware of issues that we take for granted on a daily basis, such as the all inclusive resort. It seems like a great deal, right? It is. It seems like a paradise on earth. It is. It also a main reason why countries in the Caribbean are still suffering from poverty and famine, while the wonderful all inclusive resorts are dinning out every night, blowing money at the bars; all this without even a glimpse of what’s outside the walls of the resort. This idea is discussed in Polly Pattullo’s article called “Sailing into the Sunset: The Cruise-ship Industry”, which is not specifically about all inclusive resorts, however it touches on the damages of tourism into the Caribbean.
2. I am taking an Anthropology of Tourism course currently and it’s probably the most informative course in terms of becoming aware of issues that we take for granted on a daily basis, such as the all inclusive resort. It seems like a great deal, right? It is. It seems like a paradise on earth. It is. It also a main reason why countries in the Caribbean are still suffering from poverty and famine, while the wonderful all inclusive resorts are dinning out every night, blowing money at the bars; all this without even a glimpse of what’s outside the walls of the resort. This idea is discussed in Polly Pattullo’s article called “Sailing into the Sunset: The Cruise-ship Industry”, which is not specifically about all inclusive resorts, however it touches on the damages of tourism into the Caribbean.
Because I am traveling to the Caribbean area, I am particularly concerned with the damage that a trip like mine will cause. In addition to looking at Pattullo’s article about tourism in the Caribbean, I will also look at an article by Frederick Errington and Deborah Gewertz called “Tourist and Anthropology in a Postmodern World”, which discusses the idea that anthropologists are like tourists (which is an insult to anthropologists). I want to explore both of these ideas in relation to my trip abroad this summer and hopefully answer a question that I’ve been asking myself, “Am I doing the right thing?”
When it comes to traveling to the Caribbean, it is something that I’ve always wanted to do, and I’ll admit, I wanted to do it all-inclusive-week-long-resort style. But after having my eyes opened to the world of chaos on disruption that tourism causes to Caribbean countries, and after seeing how all inclusive resorts contribute to the poverty and famine, I quickly reassessed my priorities and fantasies. The cruise ship industry within the tourism industry is that largest growing industry in the world, even greater than land-based tourism (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 401). The problem with cruise ships that people are perhaps missing is the fact that “the portion of Caribbean products purchases by cruise lines... remains small” and that “many lines employ European officers, with North American and western European staff in areas like business and entertainment, supported by a Third World crew” (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 405-6). These are issues that are prominent within the cruise industry and within land based tourism in the Caribbean as the cruise ships take away business from locals who own land based hotels, souvenir shops and restaurants (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 405). Another downfall for land based tourism, for places such as Puerto Rico for example is that after accommodating the port to fit the size of the cruise ships (which damage coral reef among other oceanic things); Puerto Rico had no money to spend on replenishing the infrastructure in the town to entice tourists to come and explore. Not only did they spend money they didn’t have on the port, but it lessened their tourism because they were unable to appeal to other aspects of the tourists expectations (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 407). The cruise lines have a lot to do with which countries are visited during the cruise and if they do not think a port is going to bring them enough success or benefit them in any way, they can simply stroke it off the list of Caribbean countries to visit. (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 403-4).
Because of difficulties securing Caribbean destinations where the locals are just right, and the area surrounding the port is beautiful enough, cruise lines have begun buying their own islands! This is in an attempt to prevent “annoying, pestering” locals, who try to make tourists buy their goods, and to give tourists the experience that the island is completely theirs (Pattullo in Gmelch 2010: 411). Pattullo also notes that many islands have become dependent on the cruise ship industry to bring tourism to their country. She used Dominica as an example, a small island just North of Martinique, which turned to tourism of cruise ships in the late 1990s to accommodate for the failing banana industry on the island (Gmelch 2010: 413).
I think it is important to look at these facts before traveling to the Caribbean. I know that I am not going as a tourist, but what is the difference between me as a volunteer student/tourist and a regular tourist. The economy of a lot of these third world Caribbean countries depend on tourism as their main source of income, which is unstable at the best of times, as Pattullo explores in her article. I find myself wondering what impact I am having as a North American traveller in the Dominican Republic. I fear that my presence there will be seen as a nuisance and that people will only see me as a snobby, rich, white girl who is doing her conscience some good by going and volunteering in a third world country. This is also addressed in Errington and Gewertz’s article about tourism and anthropology. This topic is especially important to me because I am an anthropologist and I have recently realized that perhaps the difference between tourists and anthropologists isn’t not as much as I had thought or hoped.
The article by Errington and Gewertz starts with a story about a man and his wife who travel to Papua New Guinea to study the Chambri, a native group on the island. When they arrive at a guest house which they frequent when in Papua New Guinea, they are disappointed to find a group of “travellers” (in search of the authentic, yet another topic I could get into about tourism!) taking up most of the house. The travellers were not just young, hippie like adults, but older, wealthy, retirees who were also searching for the authentic, five times a year in several different countries around the world. This made the couple quite angry because they were sharing a roof with the very type of people they were trying to get away from (Gmelch 2010: 91-2). Errington and Gewertz explore ways in which other anthropologists such as Malcolm Crick (1985) explain that “tourists lost [their] authority because, like tourists, [they] do not reach an objective understanding of the other – what [they] do is for [themselves] and in [their] own terms” (Clifford 1988 in Gmelch 2010: 92). This is an important differentiation because the tourist is someone who travels for pleasure, for fun, to get away from it all. However anthropologists travel to understand the world, to objectively understand the other, as Crick says and when these two lines become blurred, you get someone like me, who is afraid that her intentions might be taken the wrong way.
When discussing a possible directed reading course with one of my professors, she asked me what I was going to be doing in the Dominican Republic, and when I told her I was going to help run a summer day camp program by heading up the Arts and Crafts centre, she looked a little leery of being able to find something for me to write about. I felt slightly embarrassed because I didn’t want her to think that I was simply going to this country to Westernize or Christianize (which is what North Americans seem to be known for). I had to explain all about the Beyond Borders Program and how it is probably one of the best programs at Waterloo for International Education and Volunteer work, all in one. She agreed to this after a long explanation, but it felt odd, being an anthropologist student and being, what I thought was judged (but probably not, because she is the sweetest teacher ever!) by an anthropologist for being a “traveller”. I hadn’t come to look at myself like that until I did the readings from the Anthropology of Religion course and actually talked to my professor.
And, because of all this, I have come to question my validity in travelling to the Dominican to volunteer because I am unsure of the implications that I will be causing because of my presence there. This entire thought form started when my best friend told me about his week long, all inclusive stay at a resort.
I would love to hear all thoughts and opinions about me questioning myself. Reaffirmations that I am doing the right thing would also be appreciated! Sometimes I feel like we get lost in things that feel right, but perhaps are not, and that is why I question my presence in the Dominican. I hope that this article is not offensive to the director of the program, whom I have utmost respect for. This is just me analyzing what it means do be helpful in a third world context. I hope this is evident and that it doesn’t look like I am putting down the program, because I most certainly am not.
Cheers.